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Nomad 9

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hi there,
         I have a 2010 UEV 490, I have got excessive wear on the inside edge of the offside tyre, and I mean excessive.  Nearly down to the wires, maybe a bit of exaggeration, however the near side tyre is mint, virtually showing no signs if wear at all.  Yes I have checked the wheel bearing, like new, not worn.

I haven't taken anything apart yet however I suspect bushes, I've spoken to Conqueror who don't have any in stock right now, does anybody have a reference number or the bush sizes so that I can try a local suspension shop.  They can't be that unusual.

If it isn't the bushes any body else got any ideas?

Also shox, they must come off a vehicle of some description, anybody have a reference numbers?

Anybody done the job, how hard?  I rebuild engines and lots of other mechanical bits to give you an idea of what I can do.

One last thing, any hints or tips doing the job?

Checking the camber angle is this a job I can do at home?  Anybody done it is so how?

Any assistance rendered gratefully received.

Cheers Marty
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8111colin

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi Marty .
I may be able to help , I have a Companion that has only done 45000km it had the same problem as your 490 one side worse than the other .
I adjusted the wheel alignment using the eccentric bushes on the shaft of the control arm where the big nuts are I couldn't get it the same both sides as the chassis is out of square 35mm .

After getting it as close as I could I still had - 3deg negative camber on the RH  side , so I dismantled the control arm , spring out Disconnect the shocker , and removed the main shaft and bushes and found the problem , of course it's once again in the manufacturing , the main shaft has about 40mm of thread each end then the eccentric bushes sit on the thread and not the main part of the shaft , so  the bushes have worn the thread down about 3mm each side , that's 6mm of wear that gave me so much negative camber . not to mention ready to snap off .

I rang Conqueror to find if they have had this problem however they didn't  have a clue what I was talking about .

I then went to an engineer and had two new shafts made up in high tensile steel with less thread so as the eccentric bushes would sit on the main part of the shaft and not grind away on the thread .

I also found that the shaft slides into a tube that comes out with the shaft that was quietly rusting away so all cleaned up and pumped some grease into it as well .

it's not perfect -1.5 deg camber  however ill keep rotating the wheels left to right and they will wear more evenly .

i'll try for some pictures

Colin
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8111colin

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Reply with quote  #3 
IMG_2722.JPG  IMG_2753.JPG  Hi Marty
Old shaft and the new one , the new shaft was slightly larger in diameter because we had to re machine the eccentric bushes as the holes were egg shaped .

Colin

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Nomad 9

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Reply with quote  #4 
Hi Colin,
        Perfect, couldn't have asked for any more.  The bushes, did you get new ones from Conqueror or did you buy them from a suspension outlet?
 
All things considered eventually the threaded bar would have worn away and could well have snapped.

You talk about the camber angle how did you measure that to define exactly what the angle was?

Cheers Marty
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8111colin

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Reply with quote  #5 
The Nolothane bushes that are in the swing arm were ok , the steel eccentric bushes were re drilled to match the larger shaft .

The later UEV 440 AND 490 have a different set up to the cheap and nasty S.A models .

In regards to the wheel alignment .
First of all my back ground is 43 years in the Accident repair industry , so the first thing I did was to measure the whole trailer and found that not one part of it is square and I'm not kidding , some areas are from 10mm out and up to 35 mm out of square , the chassis alone is about 35mm out of square , I first thought I could square it up however that is virtually imposible due to the ridiculous way the body is riveted to the chassis , if I started to stretch the chassis all of the rivets would sheer off and the whole of the body would then be under stress .

To start with I used a portable camber caster gauge that gave me the reading on each wheel even though it was obvious , I then undid the nuts on the swing arm shafts and lifted the inside up as high as i could get it and the outside as low as it would go to tilt the wheel out at the top .
after both sides were done I measured it again only to see that I still had too much negative camber on the RH side , that's when I decided to remove the shafts and found the excessive wear .

You can do it without a camber caster gauge , first need the trailer on perfectly flat ground , you can measure the tow in by marking the front centre of the tyres with a piece of chalk measure the distance then roll the trailer back and measure the marks again at the rear to see the difference , I think towing in 2-3 mm tow out will make the trailer sway however it will turn corners better (compromise )

To measure camber you can get a piece of wood / steel that will be of the same diameter as the wheel rim , again level ground use a spirit level  placed on the wood / steel on both sides of the trailer and adjust the eccentric bushes to suit , it's a little bit hit and miss however its better than nothing .

I had string lines and drop lines from my chassis with markings on the floor , I also used a tremmel body measuring gauge to do measurements .

Like I said ,  mine is still out of whak , im going to swap my tyres around every 5or 6000 km so as not to wear them unevenly.

you can email me if you like or call me 0408557441

Colin


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filbee56

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Reply with quote  #6 
Great write-up Colin, and first-class assistance. Forum working well.

Cheers, Filbee56

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2013 LC200 TTD Sahara - Ex-Demo 10/2014 UEV-490 Evolution with the lot.
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DTKK

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Reply with quote  #7 
Hi All

I am just doing a few checks on my UEV 490 before we head over to WA for a 6 week holiday
in 2 weeks.
After jacking the 490 up to check the bearings there was what I thought a bit of movement in the LHS wheel bearing after rocking the wheel.
But on closer inspection the movement is in the bush ( pictured ) is this a quick fix by tightening it up or do I have bigger issues. The camper
has probably only done 1000 klm.
IMG_2985.JPG 

Sorry about the upside down photo

Cheers Dave


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8111colin

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Reply with quote  #8 
Hi Dave
Read what I posted further up the page , it could be your problem.
Colin
Looks like your adjustment bush has been welded , you will have to grind the weld off to dismantle the shaft and re align the wheels .
How rediculous is that ?
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DTKK

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Reply with quote  #9 
Hi Colin 

A couple more photos from a different angle to confirm what you say is true. Will have a go at most things but hav'nt played with this sort of thing before.  the lock tab doesn't seem to mesh properly with the main cog and it looks as though it has moved from its original position. Keeping my fingers crossed its not as bad as yours especially as its only done no more than 100 klm on the dirt. 

Cheers Dave       IMG_2989.JPG  IMG_2990.JPG 














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8111colin

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Reply with quote  #10 
Hi Dave

If the camper hasn't done many kms I would say that that the cam bush with the teeth has moved for sure rather than worn out .

I did post a description of how I adjusted and did a wheel alignment on my camper , you can read that or feel free to call me it might be easier to explain .
Colin .
Just PM me and i'll give you my number
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Nomad 9

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Reply with quote  #11 
Hi DTKK,
        Well after looking at your set-up it is nothing like mine.  My set-up is pretty rigid, I have had to take significantly more apart to get the stub shaft out than I expected.  I have found a small amount of wear in the bushes, some wear on the pipe.  I had to take outer plate off the chassis to get the axel out.  Anyway it is all in bits now.  The inner part of the axle support appears to have some sort of castellated washer in it, this is concentric so this doesn't adjust the camber.  I am hoping that when I replace the bushes and the tube that this is enough to correct the camber angle to stop the tyre wear.

See the pictures below:- SAM_3801.JPG  SAM_3804.JPG  SAM_3807.JPG   

 SAM_3810.JPG

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DTKK

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Reply with quote  #12 
Hi Nomad 9

We Have got the shaft out and found a slight wear on the inside of the inside bush.But no wear on the shaft or pipe. Like yours we had to remove the outer plate from the chassis in doing so most of the bolts either bound up or snapped. I'm replacing the lot with high tensile. Back to the bushes, there was about a mm gap on the inner and outer diameter of the bush when in place.
I think this is why there has been movement on the shaft causing the lock tab not to mesh.
A friend is getting some new bushes made up to fit a bit firmer. Fingers Crossed we will be able to start our holiday this coming weekend.

Cheers 

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Nomad 9

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Reply with quote  #13 
Hi Dave / Tricia,
            Like yourself I had something a bit firmer made up at work, I used a product called Vespel CR-6100, it is  a carbon impregnated composite material.  Should be OK.  I had the bushes made to suit the pipe so as to eliminate any "slop".

On assembly I used some dry lubricant on the pipe between the bush and the pipe, a chain lubricant that way it won't pick up and grit or debris and accelerate wear.

Thankfully none of my bolts bound up or snapped I used the original ones with some anti-seize on the shanks of the bolts, not on the nylock bit.  As you look at the outer chassis rail on the drivers side the right hand side bolts when in easy.  the remaining ones to the left I had a plick of a job to get the holes lined up.  The chassis rail that goes across the camper had dropped slightly, just enough that the bolts wouldn't go in.  I had to use another jack and a tyre lever to get the bolts back in.  I was sorely tempted to re drill them however I persevered.

On reassembly of the hub I sprayed chain lube inside the housing to try and stop any rust.  I bought a camber gauge off the internet to check the camber without adjustment, you simply don't have any,  my camber ended up at - 1 degree, that's as good as it gets, can't do any better. 

The other tyre wasn't badly worn so I'm going to drive on this for a while, I have nearly convinced myself that I should do the other side however I'm going to see how it goes first, I'll also check the camber and see what it is right now.

Hope some of this assists with your reassembly.  Hope you get everything back together for the weekend.

Cheers Marty
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8111colin

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Reply with quote  #14 
Hi Guys
My wheels are -1.5 deg camber , that's the best I could get so I will swap my wheels around every few thousand kms to wear them evenly .
My Castellated bush is eccentric so I could adjust both sides , still couldn't get it perfect , but  better than it was before .

cOLIN
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DTKK

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Reply with quote  #15 
Hi Colin / Marty

Thanks for the info.
Hopefully start putting it back together tomorrow, we are doing both sides
will let you know how it all goes.

Cheers

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