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bbqgurus

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Reply with quote  #16 

Hi Sascha

From memory they were 10mm bolts with nylox nuts. I took a couple off the camper and took it to a local nut and bolt place who identified it and gave me the right ones. Unfortunately I dont have the camper anymore so can't identify them. 

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Jan 

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GainzWithGreens

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Reply with quote  #17 
Thanks for your reply Jan! Worth a shot. I don't have such a local place here so need to order online. May give Conqueror a ring – they should know...[confused]
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glynnp

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Reply with quote  #18 
I came across this thread when I searched rust.

I have a rust hole in one bottom corner of the front fold down bed board/lid of my 490 (the steel box section that surrounds the aluminium plate section of the lid).

I found 2 panel beaters who, from looking at photos of the lid and rust hole, said they could cut out the rust and weld in a replacement section . I removed the lid and took it to one of the panel beaters. He looked at the actual lid and told me I would have to strip the inside insulation white filler panel out and possibly the aluminium sheet panel. So I have removed the trim that covers the join between the inside insulation panel and the outside lip of the lid. It also has the Velcro that attach the tent walls to the lid. The exposed insulation panel is about 30mm thick bubble foam sandwiched between thin metal sheets. I can see that I will have destroy the insulation panel to remove it. So I have been searching for some replacement fibreglass or foam panels. I got a quote from a fibreglass workshop of $400-$500 for the pane but they advised me to look at insulation panelsl. It is difficult to get an exact 30mm thick panel with an appropriate external surface.

I am starting to think that cutting out and replacing the rusted metal will be an expensive job and the final product will be an obvious poor repair job. I have requested a quote from Conqueror Australia for a replacement drop down lid/door. 

Has anyone fixed this problem before and how was it done? 
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Doc

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Reply with quote  #19 
I haven't glynnp however our 2015 490 has exactly the same problem as you write about. I spoke with a bloke from Custom RV at Sumner (Brisbane) about it a couple of months ago. He used to work for Conqueror a couple of years ago and is very familiar with them. He agreed with me that the design of that botom lip leaves a bit to be desired...mainly because it allows the water to pool. He told me that he has done a retro fix on another 490 not so long ago whereby he cuts out the rust, treats it, and then welding in another piece that sits so that, when the front bed is closed up, the water runs off. From memory, he quoted me around $800 (including powder coating). I'm actually thinking though of having the front painted bits coated in Speedliner or Rhino coating (like they use for spray on tub liners) to further prevent water ingress while also providing chipping and denting protection.
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Spada

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Reply with quote  #20 
Is it a rust hole ?

On the lower edge (when the bed is folded up) in each corned there is a small drain hole. This is to allow any moisture that gets into the perimeter channel to dry out. I discovered early in its life that there is potential for sitting water to seep past the silicone bead on the inside edge. The 2 drain holes are very small and block up easily and moisture can get trapped inside the channel, so I opened them up a bit (about a 4mm drill hole). Once fully dry I squirted a heap of fish oil spray into the holes using the flexible nozzle tube to get in as far as I could.

I'd be reluctant to fully seal that bottom rail unless you are certain no moisture will ever get in ? Having a small drain hole in each corner allows the air to keep the inside of the channel dry.

I'm guessing that if you've got rust in the corners it is from the holes being blocked up.
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bbqgurus

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Reply with quote  #21 
Hi

The drainage hole was introduced in later models as a result of the rust being encountered i belive.

Regards

Jan
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Doc

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Reply with quote  #22 
Definitely haven't got any drain holes in ours - Feb-15 manufactured 490 (evolution from memory).

Edit: added a photo of each bottom corner. Note the temporary fix on the driver's side corner.

Attached Images
jpeg 15308597702856199536675822975440.jpg (5.79 MB, 30 views)
jpeg 15308598161991484305679813918368.jpg (5.46 MB, 29 views)

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Spada

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Reply with quote  #23 
Yeah, that rust is on the opposite side of where I was thinking of. You wont know how bad it is until you clean it up, but possible it hasn't yet eaten it's way through. You might be able to chip of all the flake and clean up the surface with a wire wheel. Treat it with a rust converter, then prime and paint. Then you could have a new corner protector (the green bit that is riveted on) made from some ally prop plate that also folds in over the rusted bits. Rivet the new one on with plenty of sika under it to seal out any water.
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glynnp

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Reply with quote  #24 
Doc, I spoke with a bloke from Custom RV at Sumner (Brisbane) about my need for repair and he obviously knows what he is talking about in regard to Conquerors. 

I have my drop down door stripped down to the stage of exposing the edges of the white fill in panel on the interior bed floor. I had assumed that I would have to destroy this panel to remove it. But He said that it just pops out.  I think he means that the aluminium exterior panel including white interior fill in panel pops out from the steel box section perimeter. Anyway I will leave this task to someone who knows what they are doing. Additionally, I have pierced a dent in the white interior bed base panel so it should also be replaced, if I can source the material and the right thickness. 

I have a request into Conqueror Australia for the price of a new drop down door panel. So I'll wait for that before I decide my preferred solution. If the new panels have a drainage hole, the best long term solution might just be a new replacement, especially considering I have a dent in the internal white bed base material.

P1040306.jpg 

















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Doc

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Reply with quote  #25 
Oh yeah...yours is much more advanced than ours. Let me know how you go with Conqueror HQ.
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hassro

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Reply with quote  #26 
The 440's have the same issue on models prior to the pop up and slide out bed.
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William the Conqueror

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Reply with quote  #27 
The flat panel WON'T just pop out from the frame. It is glued in with quite a bit of Sikaflex. I have previously tried to salvage the outside textured panel to repair a mates trailer. They aren't designed to be reverse engineered. But it can be done (carefully)

I have built a new one with original parts supplied by Conqueror (Version 1 - Dan and Toby). The panel you are talking about is a composite of the exterior skin (beige powder coat), the insulation (white foam) and interior white panel. They are all glued together prior to assembly which is then glued into the frame and sealed with the green powder coated angle iron (which may or may not be glued down as well as riveted).

You could strip it all apart and replace the foam and white interior, but be careful to do it on a very flat and stable surface. Use a flat broad plastic scraper (I use a broad plastic panel removing tool for supercheap), a metal one will pierce the skin and cause pressure rub lines on the exterior surface, which can't be fixed.

As for a drainage hole, this was a solution someone posted quite some time ago. A member had a huge amount of water seep into the inside of his bed frame so drilled a hole in the bottom to allow it out. A drainage hole on top will allow water into the inside of the frame causing it to rust from inside out. A hole at the bottom will allow water in the frame out but, will also allow moisture to be drawn into the frame (when it heats and cools). The inside of the frame while powder coated, is not as well done as the outside and rusts quite readily.

The rust in this area (corners of the bed board) is caused by moisture getting under the powder coat and seperating it from the metal surface (which is why you can press on it and it moves. The moisture gets in through the small holes in the powder coat where the frame has been welded (powder coat applied to thinly). It will also get in where a rivet has been drilled or a sheet cut and the exposed metal not being resealed. You will also see this type of damage on the rear swing down leg supports ( where it has been peppered by stone) and also on the corners of the pantry door frame. Best to treat early as soon as you see cracks, holes or rust staining.

Cheers

Anthony

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glynnp

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Reply with quote  #28 
I have decided to purchase a full replacement panel from Conqueror. I was quoted $2,238.30 and activated the order today by paying a 20% deposit. I will have to wait a couple of months for the next container to arrive from SA.

I did try to source some replacement white panel and a fibre glass place quoted $400 - $500 to be made up. He advised me to try some insulation suppliers but I couldn't get the right thickness. The fibreglass guy said that the surface of the sandwich is thin metal.

Anthony, I drilled out the rivets holding the internal angle iron that serves to cover the join between the white panel and the frame and also holds the Velcro to attach the tent walls. This was glued and sealed, but was easy to remove with a scraper. Your caution about scraping the white panel from the aluminium skin is pertinent for me because I don't consider myself a good tradesman.

I am wondering if car wax applied to the box section frame would help to seal the surface from water seepage?
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jgtech

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Reply with quote  #29 
I had the same issue but not quite as bad - So I drilled a hole at the bottom of the front panel and plenty of water came out (now have a bung in there). I patched and painted the corners and applied sikaflex. Knowing it was a matter of time before this happened again as water would always pool due to the design and staying home this long weekend I cut up some checker plate and used my favorite black stuff sikaflex (Not) to prevent water from pooling again. See pics. 

P.S. My OCD has been killing me ever since I did this as I didn't have matching checker plate[rolleyes][biggrin]
01.jpg  02.jpg  04.jpg 

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DTKK

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Reply with quote  #30 
Hi jgtech

I drilled holes about the same place and same thing, lots off water.
Defiantly like what you have done there. Looks as though another job
on the to do list.

See you have got rid of that pin for securing the A-frame and installed
the same latch as I did.

Great work thanks for sharing

Cheers


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Dave and Tricia
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